I was recently given a copy of the classic French cookbook La bonne cuisine de Madame E. Saint-Ange, which is said to be the book that got Julia Child started cooking. I noticed immediately that it has a large number of recipes in the category oeufs brouillés, the formidable French phrase for scrambled eggs.
This is a version of oeufs brouillés Magda—eggs scrambled with Gruyère, mustard, and herbs. The mustard adds a nice note but doesn’t overwhelm the eggs. It deviates from the original in a few ways, in part because Madame Saint-Ange was apparently quite fussy about scrambled eggs, and she calls for at least twice the amount of butter used here. I used a mixture of parsley and chives, but any fresh herbs should work.
- 8 large eggs
- 3-4 tablespoons unsalted butter
- 2-1/2 tablespoons heavy cream
- 1-1/3 ounces grated Gruyère cheese
- 2-1/2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
- 3 teaspoons chopped fresh herbs
- salt and black pepper to taste
- Beat the eggs thoroughly and season with salt and black pepper.
- Melt the butter over low heat and add the beaten eggs.
- Cook over low heat, stirring slowly but constantly.
- Once the egg mixture has thickened but not yet become solid, add the cream and stir thoroughly.
- Continue stirring, until the eggs turn into a solid but smooth mass.
- While the eggs are still quite wet, add the Gruyère and mix thoroughly. There should be no lumps of cheese in the eggs; the mixture should remain smooth and uniform.
- Just before the eggs are done, add the mustard and herbs. Mix thoroughly.
- Taste and add salt and pepper if necessary.
- Serve with buttered toast.